White Wine Gets Older, Fatter and That's OK

One of my wine reps knows my weakness for zesty whites with loads of enamel-stripping acidity. So when he said he was sending me a sample of a Muscadet, I was pleased as punch. Muscadet hails from the western edge of France's Loire Valley and the wine is made from the (awkwardly named) Melon de Bourgogne grape. Typically this is a wine you would drink young, fresh, and well-chilled. It is, for the money, the ultimate oyster wine.

So I was a little surprised when the bottle showed up and it was the 2006 vintage. I expect to be seeing Muscadet from the 2009 vintage shortly. Would this wine be past its prime? Would I be robbed of the charming pleasures I have come to expect? In a word, sorta. There is no doubt that the 2006 Muscadet from Clos Saint Vincent des Rongeres (a producer I am not familiar with) is a very good wine. It's just a lot less racy than Muscadet I am used to; the extra years in the bottle have made this wine different, yet not tired. Like most of us, it seems to have gained some weight as it aged. It's a much richer wine, with an almost nutty quality on the finish. The acidity is still there, it's just not as pronounced. As far as food pairings go, I'd say it's still firmly in oyster territory but certainly could mingle with salty, cured meats and fried Marcona almonds.

When was the last time you were surprised by a wine, especially by one you thought you had all figured out?

Jameson Fink is a wine buyer at a bustling grocery store in Seattle’s Capitol Hill neighborhood. He moved to Seattle from Chicago (where he dabbled in the restaurant and wine industries) five years ago to pursue a full-time career in wine. He’d rather be drinking Champagne and eating popcorn right now.