Foodista Blog » Latin

Hunger Awareness Week Day 2

Sheri Wetherell — Wed, 22 Apr 2009 23:59:13 +0000

Well, technically it’s Day 3, but unfortunately I’ve been pulling near all-nighters at work, so writing has been challenging to say the least! But we did eat last night, I just fell asleep before I could write! Apologies.

We went to our favorite Latino market in White Center called Carniceria El Paisano for provisions. We purchased a half pound of puerco en adobo (pork in a spicy marinade) for $1.98, a can of black refried beans for $.99, a big bag of corn tortillas for $1.69, and a bottle of hot sauce for $.89.

Then we headed over to a Vietnamese market for veggies. They had a 6-foot table with loaded with baggies of fruits and vegetables in their last days – all for $1.00! A big bag of limes, one filled with tomatoes (perfect for a huge batch of sauce), nectarines, etc. You’d never see that at a Safeway! Granted, the food would need to be cooked, frozen or eaten within probably a day, but still quite the savings.

We purchased four Key limes for $.18, an onion for $.39, a half pound of nopalitos (cactus) for roughly $.75, a beautiful head of lettuce for $.79, and a big bunch of gorgeous cilantro for $.39. Grand total for dinner: $8.05. Since we had the Turkey Dal leftovers for lunch, and yogurt and bananas for breakfast, we actually saved a bit of our food dollars today.

Here’s how we prepared our Mexican meal: Barnaby grilled the nopalitos and puerco en adobo, and since they are both so thin they cooked up in a flash. I had the easy job of heating up the refried beans and chopping up the onions. We made street-style tacos filled with the pork, onions, cilantro, fresh lime juice and a squeeze of hot sauce. Tasty!

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Machaca con Huevos

Barnaby Dorfman — Thu, 19 Mar 2009 23:37:11 +0000

My favorite Mexican breakfast dish is Chilaquiles, but Machaca con Huevos is a close second. Part of why I love this dish so much is the incredible memory I have of the first time I had it. When I was 18 years old I walked across the border into Mexico with a backpack and Acapulco as my destination. Over the following week I made my way overland more than 1,500 miles to the beach resort. Much of my trip was made by train, largely in American Pullman cars from the early twentieth century. Some of these were in bad need of repair, but others had been preserved and/or restored to their original glory. I spent just a few extra dollars on the route from Guadalajara to Mexico City to travel in first class with my own sleeper compartment and dining service. The dining car was amazing! Mahogany paneled walls, etched glass table dividers, white table linens, and waiters clad in jackets and bow-ties. Lucky for me the first class section was fairly empty, so I was able to sit in the dining car, watch the scenery and chat with the staff for much of the 30 hour trip.

Always interested in cooking, I asked for a tour of the small galley kitchen. Though the chef was surprised that an American teenage backpacker would ask such a thing, he granted me entry and explained all of his equipment with great pride. The stove, cooktop and cooler were all clad in bright stainless steel, which was immaculate and lovingly maintained. Cooking was done on a flattop griddle heated with wood carcoal…not brickets, but logs that had been burned down to pure carbon and still retained their original shape. Refrigeration was achieved with blocks of ice. One item that stood out was a hunk of dark brown beef hanging from a shelf. It was hard as leather and completely dry and at first I wasn’t sure it was food, but thought maybe it was some sort of Santeria talisman. When I asked about it the rail chef explained that this was “machaca,” and that they cooked it with eggs in the morning for breakfast. He also showed me how it was prepared by cutting off a strip going with the grain and the pulling apart the fibers, which he placed into a molcajete. He then started to pound the dried meat with the mortar of the molcajete until it softened and became almost like cotton or wool in consistency. He allowed me to taste some and it was a bit like beef jerky, but beefier with less salt and no sweetness.

The next morning I eagerly made my way to the dining car and ordered “Machaca con Huevos.” I ate and fell in love with this simple dish as the train threaded it’s way south going through low-shrub desert and up into the greener mountains on the way to Mexico’s capital city. Originally made of wild game, such as deer, by Aztecs and other indigenous peoples, machaca can now be purchased pre-pounded and packaged. Look for it in your local latin markets. I picked some up in Mexico recently and made it with eggs at home. Not as picturesque an experience as that first machaca I had over 20 years ago, but you can click the widget below to try my recipe.

Finally, below are scans of the packaged machaca I brought back from Mexico.

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Mexican Truffles

Sheri Wetherell — Fri, 13 Mar 2009 21:43:58 +0000

On a recent trip to Mexico we found “Huitlacoche Quesadillas” on the menu. Barnaby, being well-versed in Mexican cuisine, exclaimed, “Oooh! Corn smut!”

What the !?

Huitlacoche (pronounced wheat-la-co-chay) is a disease of corn caused by a fungus that infects the kernels creating mushroom-like tumors. The name huitlacoche comes from the Nahuatl (Aztecs) word reportedly meaning raven’s exrement.

Hmm, it has “smut” in the name (something I generally only call my trashy magazines or some nasty thing that comes out of a drain), it’s a disease, it has tumors, and the Aztecs called it bird crap.

Is your mouth watering yet? No? Mine wasn’t either.

Farmers in most countries regard corn smut as a blight and spend great amounts of money to destroy it, but in Mexico it’s considered a delicacy. I want to know who the brave soul was that ate it first. I decided to buck up and give it a try. It has an earthy mushroom-like flavor and is at once sweet and savory.

It was divine.

Look for it in Latin markets or buy it on Amazon.com.

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Ceviche de Pulpo

Sheri Wetherell — Fri, 27 Feb 2009 02:00:38 +0000

We don’t eat much octopus in the U.S., which frankly is a darn shame. My guess is that we shy away from it because of its large tentacles, something that can bet daunting. But fear not! The way I look at it is this: if you can cut up a whole chicken, you can cook a small octopus! Just think of it as yet another culinary adventure! When octopus is prepared properly it is tender, delicate and delicious – though, admittedly, when not, it’s like chewing on erasers. The trick is to cook it slowly for a long period of time until the flesh is tender and succulent.

One of my favorite dishes is ceviche de pulpo. Once the octopus (pulpo in Spanish) has been thoroughly cooked it is then marinated for a few hours (or overnight) in citrus juices and salt. When mixed with diced red onions, cilantro and a bit of avocado it is pure delight! The best thing about any ceviche is it lasts a few days in the fridge – only getting better and better as it marinates in the limey juices. Perfect for a warm weather al fresco dinner or a lovely lunch in the sun.

Click here for the recipe and more on Ceviche de Pulpo:

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Smoked Pork Chops in Cuba

Sheri Wetherell — Tue, 09 Dec 2008 00:42:28 +0000

Photo: WordRidden

In 2002 Barnaby and I flew to Mexico City, then hopped another plane bound for the beautiful land of Cuba. (Knock, knock, knock. Excuse me, I think that must be the Department of Treasury at my door). Barnaby was there legally as part of the Havana Film Festival. I, on the other hand, was the renegade American. I smiled a big I’m-so-happy-to-be-here grin at the Customs agent who looked at my passport and handed it back to me unstamped. “Welcome to Cuba,” he said, sporting an even bigger grin.

I felt naughty being there. And I liked it.

Havana is like a beautiful aging actress whose lipstick bleeds and foundation is cakey. You see signs of her former glory, her sexiness, her mystique, but the luster has left long ago. All she needs is a face lift and a good shot of Botox.

On our first night venturing out for food we were approached by a jinetero, which literally translates to “jockey” but more loosely to hustler, who escorted us to a paladar. Paladares are small, unadvertised family owned and operated restaurants. In exchange for high taxes the government allows families to operate these restaurants, but they must seat no more than 12 people at a time and serve only local food: pork, seafood (if you’re lucky) black beans and rice (Moors and Christians) and simple salads. The nice thing about paladares is you get good quality home-cooked food while experiencing Cuban culture.

Being unadvertised we didn’t mind the aid of the jinetero. In fact, each night we welcomed the help of jineteros. Being fluent in Spanish it was easy for Barnaby to ask about the paladar to which we were being taken. One such place specialized in smoked pork chops. We’d had a lot of pork so we welcomed the new cooking method and told the jinetero we’d love to go. His friend ran ahead to tell owners we were coming. Apparently not many Americans visited this mostly locals only place so I’m sure the finder’s fee was good.

Down one quaint run-down street after another we went until we found ourselves in front of a once grand old home. We rang the bell and the door opened. Up the narrow staircase we climbed to another gated door. We were greeted cheerfully by a flamboyant transvestite who owned the “not so legal” paladar with his lover. We invited our two new jinetero friends to join us for lunch and the four of us embarked on the meal of a lifetime. For us, sitting in an unknown, impossible to find gem of a restaurant in a forbidden country; for them, eating a meal they couldn’t afford.

The lovers gave us a tour of their sparkling kitchen that was part cooking lesson, part La Cage aux Folles. I loved it. They brought out heaps of flavorful beans and rice, salad, ice cold beers, and the pièce de résistance: their smoked pork chops. To this day I have yet to have a more succulent, tender and juicy piece of smoked pork. Delicious ones indeed I have found at Latino markets in the U.S., but none that quite compare. They were that good.

They were embargo-ending good.

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For The Love Of Anchovies

Tracy Sarich — Fri, 26 Sep 2008 04:59:18 +0000

Photo: rfarmer

Members of the herring family, anchovies are tiny silver fish that are most frequently packed in olive oil and salt. My love of this small fish began when I lived in Rome. I simply could not stop eating anchovies on a simple pizza of tomato and mozzarella. I have since expanded my use of anchovies, using them to add salt and depth to a variety of recipes. Here are a few of my favorite uses of the anchovy – some are mine, some are dishes I admire, all are examples of the versatility of this flavor packed little beauty.

A. Anchovy-Cauliflower Spread at Tom Douglas’ Seattle restaurant Lola. No recipe here – but I highly recommend a visit if you’re in Seattle.

B. Added to tomato sauces – I add anchovy to many of my tomato sauces in place of salt. I particularly like it when I am adding italian sausage to my sauce.

C. Pasta alla Vongole – I like to add a little anchovy paste to the broth in place of salt. Anchovy paste is often a mix of ground anchovies, vinegar, spices and water. Its strong, salty flavor goes a long way, adding richness rather than fishyness.

D. Anchovy Butter – in a food processor blend 1 stick of softened unsalted butter with 2 tablespoons lemon, 3 anchovy fillets (or to taste), and 2-3 cloves of garlic. Capers can also be added to this mixture for extra tartness. This rich, salty butter is great on steaks and on hot toasts. A little goes a long way. There are many variations of this compound butter – experiment. Enjoy.

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Potato And Ham Croquettes

Sheri Wetherell — Mon, 11 Aug 2008 20:46:11 +0000

Croquettes, or in Spanish croquetas, are small, lightly breaded fritters that are deep fried. A common variety in Spain is the potato and ham croquette, or croquetas de patatas y jamon. Fluffy and smooth mashed potatoes mixed with small bits of ham make these a perfect appetizer, side dish, or your own at-home tapa. A delicious comfort food any time of year.

Potato Croquettes with Ham
Recipe adapted from 1080 Recipes

1 cup finely chopped Black Forest ham, prosciutto, or other dry cured ham
3 1/2 lbs red potatoes, unpeeled
2 eggs, separated
1 clove garlic
Sunflower oil, for deep-frying
Salt

Place potatoes in a large stock pot, fill with cold water, cover and bring to a boil. Lower the heat to a simmer, then continue to cook for 20-30 minutes, until potatoes are tender. Drain, peel, and mash the potatoes before they cool. Mix the diced ham with the mashed potatoes and beat in the egg yolk.

Heat 1 tablespoon of oil in a small skillet. Add the clove of garlic and cook until slightly browned. Remove from oil and, in a mortar or on a cutting board, mash with a pinch of salt to create a paste. Add the garlic paste to the potato mixture.

Whisk the egg whites and a pinch of salt in a bowl until they form soft peaks. Fold into the potato mixture.

With damp hands, shape the mixture into croquettes (cylinders or small patties). Heat the remaining oil in a deep-fryer or deep saucepan to 350-375 degrees. Add the croquettes in batches of about 6 and cook until golden brown.

Drain well and serve immediately. Delicious with garlic mayonnaise!

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Spanish Tortilla

Sheri Wetherell — Sat, 02 Aug 2008 16:00:50 +0000

Irish girl here loves her potatoes, so whenever I go to a tapas restaurant I am sure to order a traditional Spanish tortilla. Other than its name, the Spanish tortilla has nothing in common with the Mexican corn or flour tortilla. It’s more like a thick potato-filled omelet. Layer upon tender layer of potato with fluffy egg to hold it all together. Slice it like pie and serve it plain, with a little dollop of aioli (garlic mayo), or with a bit of carmelized onions.

Put me in a dark corner of a tapas restaurant and I could eat the whole skillet-full myself.

Tortilla Española
Spanish Potato Omelet

2 1/4 cups sunflower oil
2 1/2 pounds potatoes, halved lengthwise and thinly sliced
8 eggs
2 tablespoons olive oil
Salt

Serves 6

Heat the oil in a large skillet. Add the potato slices and cook until softened and lightly browned. Season with salt, remove from the skillet, and drain well.

In a large bowl, beat the eggs and a pinch of salt for about 1 minute. Add the potatoes and gently sir with a fork.

Heat the olive oil in the same large skillet. Pour in the egg and potato mixture into the skillet and spread the potatoes out evenly. Cook until the underside is set and lightly brown. Occasionally give the skillet a gentle shake to move the tortilla around. Invert the tortilla onto a plate, then gently slide back into the skillet. Cook until the underside is also set and browned, also occasionally shaking the skillet.

Serve immediately.

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Traditional Gazpacho – Tomato Week Part 2

Sheri Wetherell — Tue, 29 Jul 2008 21:27:36 +0000

Not long ago I posted a recipe for a chunky California-style gazpacho. It was such a hit that I thought I’d share with you a more traditional, but just as delicious, recipe.

Allow me to take you on a little trip to Spain…

Gazpacho
The following recipe is adapted from the famous Spanish cookbook 1080 Recipes.

2 1/4 pounds ripe tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and coarsely chopped
1/4 onion, coarsely chopped
1 small cucumber, peeled and coarsely chopped
1/2 small green bell pepper, seeded and coarsely chopped, plus a little extra for garnish
4 1/2 cups bread crumbs
3/4 cup olive oil
2 tablespoons white wine vinegar
Salt and fresh ground pepper

Put the tomato, onion, cucumber, bell pepper, bread crumbs, oil, and vinegar into a food processor or blender and process until smooth. If the mixture is too thick, then add a bit of cold water. Transfer to a bowl, cover with plastic wrap, and refrigerate until fully chilled (about 2 hours).

Season to taste with salt and pepper, and garnish with a bit of diced green bell peppers and tomato. A drizzle of a good quality extra virgin olive oil is quite nice too.

Serves 4-6

How easy was that! Enjoy!

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Grilled Polenta With Exotic Mushroom Rub

Sheri Wetherell — Mon, 28 Jul 2008 01:02:18 +0000

Polenta is one of my favorite comfort foods. Nothing beats a heaping bowl of this peasant food made rich with cream, parmesan or gorgonzola (to name a few!). But when in its cooled and solid form, it’s perfect for grilling.

Making polenta can be a long, arduous, and painful process. If you’re not careful it will bubble and burst in molten eruptions, so if you want to keep it quick and simple – and your arms free of burn blisters – I recommend using the premade polenta “logs,” which can be found in most supermarkets.

In our pantry we have a stack of Seattle restaurateur, Tom Douglas‘, wonderful Rub With Love spice rubs. The one I reached for to rub on my polenta was his Exotic Mushroom Rub, which consists of porcini mushrooms, garlic, herbes de Provence, smoked paprika, and a few other tasty ingredients. This rub is fantastic on vegetables, meat and chicken, and was heavenly on grilled polenta.

Grilled Polenta With Exotic Mushroom Rub

Slice polenta into 1/2 inch rounds and generously rub the mushroom blend on both sides. Drizzle or spray with olive oil and place on a medium-high grill for about 4 minutes on each side. Remove when slices lose their firmness and feel soft.

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