(Editor’s note: We’re thrilled to welcome New York-based food lover, Seth Knight, as a contributing editor to Foodista.)

If you have ever watched the Food Network, added herbs to a whole chicken, used olive oil, or hell, eaten out in the last 50 years, you must take a moment to give thanks to James Beard, the father and patron saint of American cooking. Beard understood the American palate preferred something familiar but also yearned for new and exciting all at the same time. Recently, I attended a symposium in New York City hosted by The New School celebrating the life of this food industry giant (literally, he was 6’4), and I found myself longing be a part of the club; whose members were taught by and touch by “Jim.”

James Beard was born in 1903 in Portland, Oregon and was raised by his mother who ran a boardinghouse.  Beard was a sickly young child and it was then that he was able to experience the joy of food though his mother and their Chinese cook. He was often fed chicken jelly, a mixture of chicken broth, with the whites of an egg and its shell mixed, chilled and strained into gelatinous globs. James would later reminisce that “The Chinese have the perfect palate.” Beard indeed remembered every meal he ate with extreme detail and clarity, which spurred his ability to create in the kitchen. After failed attempts to become an Opera singer and Broadway actor, James opened a catering business Hors D’Oeuvre Inc in 1937. It was then he also wrote his first book Hors D’Oeuvres and Canapés. His book went against America’s growing addiction to “fast, easy and cheap.” Science had replaced fresh picked berries with JELL-O and homemade bread took a backseat to Bisquick.

Beard’s books were the first to cross from a list of ambiguous instructions to a narrative. Betty Fussell, author of The Story of Corn recalled, “He was the middle man. Jim bridged my eighth grade home economics class and the select gourmets of the world. His books were “straight-talk” and were written the way Americans spoke.  And they were personal, as if to say, If I could do it, so can you…And now we’ll do it together.” She continued, “He was also from the west, a cowboy…so he cooked with that adventurous spirit.”

According to Cinema Studies Professor Dana Polan, James Beard also sought to extend the pleasure of cooking beyond the housewife. As the host of the first stand-alone cooking show “I Love to Eat,” his primetime segment would encourage “man duties” such as stuffing a raw chicken or grilling. He even suggested that men be in charge for garnishing dishes, for they are the best decorators (we’ll get to that later).

James Beard was a born teacher and loved having people around.  Judith Jones, who worked with everyone from Langston Hughes to Julia Child remembered, “Jim loved to get together with aspiring cooks and get close and instruct them. He would run to the telephone and field calls from women in Iowa, and instruct them on how to calibrate their ovens. And if anyone ever questioned the direction he was talking the recipe, he’d say, “We’re Americans, we can do as we please.”

The always outspoken food writer extraordinaire Barbra Kafka, summed-up James Beard the best, saying, “Jim was gay! A lot of people fail to mention that. He was uncompromisingly gay, as was everything he did. His books were uncompromising, his life was honest, and his cooking was real.”

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Categories:	Author • Chefs • Events	4 Comments
Tags:	american cooking • Author • Canapés • celebrity chef • Chef • cooking • Events • Hors D’Oeuvres • james beard • New York • The New School

I recently had the opportunity to interview Craig Boreth, author of The Hemingway Cookbook. Here’s a bit of our discussion…

When I first traveled to France and Spain about ten years ago, I thought following a Hemingway itinerary — from his Paris haunts, through San Sebastian and Pamplona and down to Madrid — would be a great way to really dig into the terrain. Of course, while doing so I found myself bar- and restaurant-hopping all day and night, and I began to realize that Hemingway wrote often (and, in my opinion, brilliantly) about food, and the idea of a cookbook began to take shape.

The greatest character I met was definitely Forrest “Duke” MacMullen, a hunting buddy of Hemingway’s from the Idaho days who provided the recipe for Cornish Pasties. He loved talking about those old days, and his letters always smelled of pipe smoke.

Of all the people I spoke with, I only had one bad experience. I called a rather famous photographer to inquire about buying the rights to use a photo of Hemingway. I don’t know if he was off his meds that day, but when I told him that $10,000 was way beyond my budget, he told me to “stop playing games and call back with a real offer,” and he hung up on me.

My favorite is the lime ice with gin and crème de menthe. Having visited Hemingway’s home in Cuba in summertime, I can imagine how this refreshing dessert could cut through the sweltering heat. It’s really easy to make, it’s got a great fresh lime tartness and a nice kick of booze.

Craig gracefully gave us permission to share this recipe with you here…

I’ve prepared most of them myself, but I enlisted many friends to help test them all.

That’s one of the things that makes the book so interesting. It’s a (hopefully) very accurate representation of Hemingway’s culinary biography. He had a huge personality and an appetite to match, and the recipes in the book reflect them.

I was surprised to learn how sophisticated Hemingway was in his use of food within his stories. I assumed it would all be boozing and gluttony. As an artist, he didn’t just use food symbolically in his writing, but he also brought in his expertise to make sure that the foods were local, in season, and perfectly-suited to the character in that particular time and place. It’s a deliberate and painstaking process that adds depth and richness to what is often mistaken for being sparse prose.

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Check out Craig’s other fun books:

How to Feel Manly in a Minivan

How to Iron Your Own Damn Shirt: The Perfect Husband Handbook

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Categories:	Interview • Travel	3 Comments
Tags:	Author • Cuba • Ernest Hemingway • France • Hemingway Cookbook • Literature • Papa • Spain