When we heard that drastic cuts in wild chinook salmon fishing were being taken I admit I freaked out a bit. I live in the Pacific Northwest. Salmon is a staple food up here! We need it like we need fresh air to breathe (well, that’s a bit of a stretch, but I will miss my beloved chinook). Then I read an article about the severity of the situation and thought – I can happily refrain from eating it. I do, after all, have a rule against eating anything listed as an Endangered Species, and our poor aquatic friend is now firmly planted on that list.

The good news is we still have the farmed stuff. I know, there’s a big debate around farmed salmon, but really, we breathe in nasty exhaust going to and fro work five times a week, is a little farmed fish now and then honestly much worse?

Anyway…

Why is it when someone tells us we can’t have something we want it ten times more? Knowing we can’t eat wild salmon makes Barnaby and I want salmon for dinner every night. We just stocked up on the fatty farmed variety and tonight we are making salmon cakes (these would also make scrumptious burgers).

Don’t worry about following a set recipe here – we have none. Just let your heart and taste buds dictate…

Mince your fillet of salmon, then toss into a bowl. Add some chopped red onion, capers, an egg, and bit of panko. Mix up and form into patties. Slap them onto the grill and cook a couple minutes on each side. While they’re cooking, whip up some mayo with a good squeeze of lemon juice and some fresh dill. There’s your sauce.

Here’s to your delicious patties and to the free salmon proliferating in our waters!

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The clean, crisp air of Seattle, with its slightly salty breeze, calls for a meal of fresh fish. Luckily, it’s quite easy to find good sushi-grade fish in the Emerald City. Just head to the market -Pike Place Market, that is – and buy yourself a top-grade troll-caught albacore tuna loin. What is troll-caught, you ask, and why would I want it? Younger (3-5 years old) troll-caught albacore contains more Omega-3 fatty acids than larger, older albacore tuna. And, because of the higher content of fatty acids you need less fat in your recipe. It always comes out buttery and tender.

Trolling (fishing with jigs behind a slow-moving boat) is also a low-impact, environmentally responsible fishing method . We like that!

Sesame Seared Albacore Tuna

Heat a small amount of oil in a frying pan.
Combine equal amounts of toasted and black sesame seeds on a plate.
Thoroughly coat each side of the loin with the seeds (no need to use any egg wash as the seeds will stick).
Sear loin on each side about 1 minute (a bit more if you want it less rare inside).

To cut the loin use an exceptionally sharp chef’s knife. To come out with clean, unbroken slices, I find it easiest if you place your hand perpendicular to the loin and carefully slice between your index and middle finger. This way you can stabilize the loin while you slice and prevent it from falling apart. Take care to make nice long slices, not short back-and-forth slices as if cutting bread.

Serve on a bed of wakame and drizzle with a little ponzu sauce. It’s also delicious with a little soy sauce and wasabi.

Tip: How can you tell how well-done your fish (or meat) is? Check out Men in Aprons‘ Hand Test Method.

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I thought I’d share a bit about our recent trip to the lovely town of El Fuerte, Mexico. All of my previous trips to Mexico have been to lounge on a beach, sip margaritas and frolic in the surf. But this trip, although fun, was a volunteer mission with LIGA International. The first Friday of each month, about 15 privately owned aircrafts fly supplies and medical professional volunteers to remote LIGA clinics. My father, a pilot, has been actively involved with LIGA for some time and had two extra seats in his plane for Barnaby (as a translator) and I (willing candy striper). Also flying with us was Peter, a surgeon, who has been volunteering with LIGA for the last 15 years. There’s some serious good karma for ya.

We flew into El Fuerte’s little strip of an airport. Soon our plane was approached by a swarm of four and half foot soldiers carrying four foot guns. The drug trade is big in the state of Sinaloa, so they were there to search our bags. I thought it was so cool – naive me – to be surrounded by armed men (they knew we were LIGA), and I wanted to get these guys on film to share on my blog! I excitedly looked at Barnaby.

“You think I can take a picture?!”
“Ehhh, I don’t think that’s such a good idea.” Looking at me like I was off my rocker.
“Darn!”

Notes to self:

1) not a good idea to take photos of men carrying guns larger than self
2) ” ” while standing next to small aircraft in remote area known for large drug drops
3) ” ” ” and potentially carrying large bricks of some illicit substance
4) just not a good idea to take photos of men with guns. Period.

I know this is supposed to be a blog about food. I’m working up to that.

Of course, our aircraft and bags are cleared and, with wide grins from the big gun wielding men (see, I knew they wouldn’t shoot us), we are sent off in a taxi to the charming town of El Fuerte.

LIGA works with three clinics in and around El Fuerte, each specializing in various medical treatments. I had visions of being a modern-day Florence Nightingale, there to administer to the sick and wounded, healing with my tender touch and kind heart. But, alas, because I am not fluent in Spanish, nor do I have any medical training beyond the application of band-aids and NeoSporin, I stayed with my father and three other pilots to build wheelchairs (from FreeWheelchairMission.org). It was still quite rewarding!

After the chairs were finished there was, unfortunately, nothing left for us to build, so off we went to a lunch of octopus ceviche and
micheladas!

In addition to the fabulous ceviche, a typical meal is one of fresh Bass caught from either the nearby lake or river. I had it both nights: first grilled (a la plancha) then with garlic (mojo de ajo). Served with refried beans, hand-made corn tortillas, fresh limes and a selection of salsas. Mmmmm! I apologize for not taking pictures of these beautiful dishes, but I was so mesmerized that I dug in immediately.

Next trip, I promise!
I’d love to know what you think. Click the Comments link below and share your thoughts.

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Unless you live close to the border, or in a community with a sizable Mexican population, you may think of tacos as being hard shells filled with ground beef, cheese, tomatoes, onions, lettuce, etc.. At least that’s the typical American version of a taco. But I’m talking good, authentic tacos. Specifically, fish tacos. No cheese, no sour cream.

If you’re craving Mexican food some night then try these out. They are actually easier to prepare than the Americanized ones, and are fresh and delicious. Here’s what you need:

Soft corn tortillas, steamed (hand-made ones are best)
Fish, grilled and cut into strips or chunks (any kind, but red snapper is common in Mexico)
White onion, diced
Fresh cilantro (leaves only)
Salsa verde (green salsa)
Lots of lime wedges

You can also use shrimp, pork (carnitas), steak (carne asada) or grilled vegetables for a vegetarian option.

Place ingredients in little bowls for a build-your-own dinner. Pile a little of each in your warm tortilla and top off with a healthy squeeze of lime juice. Wash down with a nice cold cerveza, toss your head back and yell, “Viva Mexico!” Arrriiiiibaaaaa!

Or, just enjoy quietly with your family.

If you’re in the Los Angeles area Bandini, of The Great Taco Hunt, has thoughtfully documented the best taco joints. Muchas gracias!

I’d love to know what you think. Click the Comments link below and share your thoughts.

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I lived in Japan for three years. I wish that I had at least once dragged my body out of bed at 3:00 a.m., taken the one hour train ride to downtown Tokyo and gone to the world famous Tsukiji Fish Market. The market dates back to the 16th century when Tokugawa, the first shogun and builder of Edo (now Tokyo) invited fisherman from Osaka in order to provide seafood to the Edo Castle. This privilege also allowed the fisherman to sell the left-overs, thus creating a market. As the new capital grew, and the population expanded, so grew the demand for fish. The market was reformed and developed into an official wholesale market licensed by the Shogunate.

If you like sushi this is the place to go. The Tsukiji market brings in over 2,500 tons of seafood each day: delicate seaweed, expensive caviar, delicate sea urchin, potentially lethal fugu, gigantic tuna. You’ll also find some of the most savvy fish buyers who will drop top dollar (or yen) in seconds for the finest quality (see 60 Minutes story The King of Fish).

While you can no longer go to the market during the wee hours of the morning when the auctions occur it would still be worth the visit. Next time I’m in Japan I will make sure a visit to Tsukiji is on my itinerary.

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It’s cold outside and the fire’s going, you’d think I’d want a nice hot soup. But, no, I want ceviche! Normally I think of this as a warm-weather dish: chilled, citrusy, something you’d eat al fresco. But last month we visited El Salvador and the ceviche we had there is still ever-present in my mind. It was perfectly “cooked” and had a wonderful hint of fresh ginger. While not exactly the same this Peruvian recipe looks quite appetizing and encompasses much of what was in our dish. I also love variations with cilantro, mango, avocado, etc.

I’ve had a difficult time finding a really good, comprehensive ceviche cookbook while there are thousands upon thousands of sushi cookbooks. Why have we not embraced this delicious South American dish con mucho gusto!? For inspiration and entertainment check out Chef Melissa’s blog on ceviche, the wrath she endured over her stated provenance of this dish and a great clip of Anthony Bourdain’s show No Reservations. If you’re not familiar with this show and love food and travel (and New York humor) then put this show on your TiVo list.

For even further inspiration check out the beautiful variations of ceviche on Flickr.

Cheers and good eats!

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During the holiday season when our bellies are consistently being pushed to maximum capacity with baked goods, carb-laden sides, hefty meats and poultries, it’s nice to have a break and eat something light and healthy.

It’s a cold, crisp night here in San Mateo, California. Perfect for nabe (nabemono). Nabe, or hot pot, is a typical Japanese soup eaten in the colder months, and usually cooked in a pot at the table. These popular nabe dishes may ring a bell here in the States: Sukiyaki, Shabu Shabu, Oden. While typical nabes include vegetables and fish, seafood or meat, there really is no hard fast rule as to what you can throw in.

Tonight our nabe includes the following: Copper River salmon (one small fillet for the two of us), a few large shrimp, oyster and enoki mushrooms, mizuna (Japanese mustard greens), tofu and shirataki (konyaku) noodles. The broth is as follows:

2/3 C. mirin

2/3 C. sake

2/3 C. soy sauce

1, 1/3 C. dashi

2 T. sugar

Cook until sugar dissolves and alcohol reduces.

Serve with hot sake to make the meal complete.

Itadakimasu (let’s eat)!

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