We don’t eat much octopus in the U.S., which frankly is a darn shame. My guess is that we shy away from it because of its large tentacles, something that can bet daunting. But fear not! The way I look at it is this: if you can cut up a whole chicken, you can cook a small octopus! Just think of it as yet another culinary adventure! When octopus is prepared properly it is tender, delicate and delicious – though, admittedly, when not, it’s like chewing on erasers. The trick is to cook it slowly for a long period of time until the flesh is tender and succulent.

One of my favorite dishes is ceviche de pulpo. Once the octopus (pulpo in Spanish) has been thoroughly cooked it is then marinated for a few hours (or overnight) in citrus juices and salt. When mixed with diced red onions, cilantro and a bit of avocado it is pure delight! The best thing about any ceviche is it lasts a few days in the fridge – only getting better and better as it marinates in the limey juices. Perfect for a warm weather al fresco dinner or a lovely lunch in the sun.

Click here for the recipe and more on Ceviche de Pulpo:

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Categories:	Cooking tips • Fish & Seafood • Fruit • Latin	3 Comments
Tags:	ceviche • Octopus • Pulpo • seafood

We are please to introduce Betsy Dorfman as our newest contributor to the Foodista blog. You can see her regular blog here.

TUGBERT is our 26-foot Nordic Tug recreational trawler, berthed in Marina del Rey, California, otherwise known as the watery part of Los Angeles. We have been enjoying a warm October and there is no better fair weather dinner in our opinion than fish cooked over a grill on a boat. Everything tastes better, for starters, and the propane fueled grills, which you will see everywhere clamped to boat railings, are actually serious cookers, which heat quickly and do a grand job on fish.

Of course the fish has to be fresh. For that we head south to Alamitos Bay (near Long Beach) to the Sunday Farmer’s Market, well worth the investment in gas. Prices are cheaper than the chef-infested markets of Santa Monica and nowhere else has J & P West Coast Seafood. From the side of a chuck wagon style truck this gentleman improbably dispenses some of the freshest fish in the area week after week at, not low, but fair prices for the quality. The white sea bass ran us about $20 per pound, but this is a cut, which is all edible with no waste.

First we cut the sea bass into similar portions of like thickness. Next we generally brush with olive oil before applying a rub. Even though the white sea bass has a high oil content on its own, the oil disperses the rub evenly and helps it adhere rather than scrape off on the grill. Flush from a recent visit to World Spice in Seattle, we had variety of choices but soon settled on a an old favorite – Calico fish rub. This is a blend of sumac, Chinese chilies, whole black sesame seeds, red sea salt, and dill. It adds nice reddish color (that’s the sumac) to a plain white fish like the sea bass, and there is no need for salt or pepper. With the green dill weed the effect before cooking is Christmas on a plate! Grill and eat, couldn’t be simpler. You may encounter some bones but these are typically large and readily identified. This is a mild fish with a creamy finish similar to scallop or crab.

For the side dish we cheated and precooked the potatoes in the microwave to shorten the cook time on the boat. We cut the mostly cooked peeled potatoes into convenient chunks, combined with raw onion and a large shallot, drizzled with Meyer lemon olive oil, dotted with sea salt and pepper and wrapped in foil. Placed on the back side of the grill in its packet the potatoes finished cooking in ten minutes or so, roughly the same time it took to grill the fish. Times will vary widely depending upon the thickness of the fish, whether it is cold or room temperature, and the setting or flame on your grill.

White Sea Bass a la Tugbert

Side dishes:
Foil wrapped potatoes, onions and shallots
Large helping of sunset

Grilled white sea bass
1 lb fish steak or fillet cut into three equal portions (serves 2-3)
2 tsps olive oil
Rub of your choice, or salt & pepper – about 1 tablespoon
Brush olive oil on all sides and surfaces of fish coat with rub
Foil wrapped potatoes
One medium potato per person, microwave whole until fork inserts rather easily — prick potatoes several times with a fork prior to microwaving to avoid explosions!
Peel potatoes, and cut into 2″ cubes
One medium onion, peeled and sliced
One large shallot, peeled and sliced
1 tablespoon Meyer lemon infused olive oil, any flavored olive oil, or plain oil of good quality
Sea salt and pepper to taste
Toss all together and place on oiled square of aluminum foil. Top with a second piece of foil of equal size, seal and crimp edges.

This same dinner could be made on land, but we recommend buying a boat for maximum flavor.

Ron and Betsy and TUGBERT

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Categories:	Cooking tips • Fish & Seafood	1 Comment
Tags:	california • fish • Food • foodista • grilling • Marina del Rey • sea bass • seafood • Tugbert

I’m a big Donna Brazile fan. So you can imagine my excitement when I heard she would be the guest speaker at a Washington Women Lawyers Awards Dinner that I was attending. Thanks to the swift shipping of Amazon.com, I had two copies of her book Cooking with Grease: Stirring the Pots in America, a memoir of her life in politics, in my hands the next morning, ready for Tracy and I to have signed later that night.

As I introduced myself to Ms. Brazile, I said, “I’m actually not an attorney, I’m a food writer.” Clearly being a food lover herself (each chapter of her book is named after a New Orleans food), she flipped towards the back of the book and showed me her late mother Jean’s recipe for seafood gumbo.

“I’m talking gumbo with Donna Brazile!” I was screaming like a twelve-year-old inside my head.

There’s a lot of chopping and prepping involved in gumbo, so Jean would divvy up the tasks among her nine children. Who needs a Cuisinart when you have nine kids as your prep chefs! I bet they also made for some lickity split clean up too.

This last Saturday we hosted a dinner party and spent the afternoon making Jean’s gumbo. As Ms. Brazile recommends in Step 1 of her cooking instructions, “Pour yourself something cold…You’re about to cook with grease.” Out came the wine and the Dr. John.

Many shrimp, oysters, sausages, glasses of wine, and much stirring-and-browning-of-the-roux later, we dished up the gumbo sat down with our nine guests.

Then we raised our glasses and toasted the stirring up of America’s pot.

Damn, that gumbo was good.

Check The Politico for the complete recipe and instructions for Jean’s Seafood Gumbo.

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Categories:	Cookbooks • Fish & Seafood • Meat & Poultry • Seasoning & Spices • Shellfish • Soup • Veggies • wine	1 Comment
Tags:	Donna Brazile • Food • foodista • gumbo • new orleans • oysters • Politics • seafood • seafood gumbo

After seeing Sooke Harbour House featured on Anthony Bourdain’s: No reservations, Barnaby and I looked at each other and said, “We have got to go there.” We love food and we love travel, so we took a culinary adventure up to Sooke Harbour on Vancouver Island to check out this famous restaurant and hotel.

Sooke Harbour House is nested on the edge of the stunningly gorgeous Whiffen Spit Beach. Its white building is surrounded by nature’s art (gardens, sculptures, stone pathways) and filled with gallery art (seals carved from beach wood, paintings, more sculptures).

The restaurant is simple and comfortable, like the family beach house – albeit a very nice beach house – and has been rated “Best Restaurant in the World for Authentic, Local Cuisine” by Gourmet Magazine. Chef Edward Tuson, who has been the chef for the last 12 years, is exceptionally creative and innovative. Their menu changes daily according to what is fresh and available. In fact, the focus of their menu is on seasonal, regional (only from the Southwestern coast of the island), and organic ingredients. Even the seafood is plucked from the waters of their beautiful backyard. One would have to be a master to recreate the wheel as he does each day.

Our waiter and sommelier, Vincent, spoke with a charming Québécois lilt and looked like the younger brother of Javier Bardem. Kind, knowledgeable and unpretentious, he’s just the type of server you want. After all, it’s not just the food that makes a restaurant great, it’s the whole package: ambiance, views, service, decor, and of course, cuisine. This place has it all, which is why I now rate it in my top 10 favorite restaurants.

I chose the following selections from their roughly $75 Canadian (excluding tax and beverages) prix fixe menu:

• Creamy Celery Root Soup with clams, summer vegetables and sundried tomato oil (shown),
• Grilled Spot Shrimp with chilled gazpacho, zucchini, corn salad, brioche toasts and chive sour cream,
• Herb Roasted Lamb Leg  with nectarine, oxeye daisy salsa on potato corn cakes with braised fennel and purple cabbage.

For dessert I selected the “Three Garden Inspired Sorbets.” This made me sing like a siren. Green apple rosemary, blackberry fennel seed, and apricot fruit sage. The plate was adorned with a few unusual looking deep red berries the shape and size of the tip of a child’s pinky. Vincent told me they were fuschia berries. Fuschia berries! I had never heard nor seen anything like it, but come next summer I’ll be watching the fuschia tree in my yard like a hawk for these sweet, delicious berries.

I long to return to Sooke Harbour House. But next time we’ll book a room so we can waddle back from the restaurant. Did I mention there was a spa, too? Oh yes, I’ll be there as well. Perhaps I can also join the kitchen foragers as they search the beaches and waters for the night’s meal.

Another thing I’ll do when I return is kiss the chef for making us beautifully delicious food as nature intended.

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Categories:	Restaurants • Travel	6 Comments
Tags:	Anthony Bourdain • BC • British Columbis • Edward Tuson • Food • foodista • local food • Organic • Restaurants • seafood • Sooke Harbour House • Travel • Vancouver

I don’t know what’s better in this dish: the fresh tuna or the mango salsa? The fresh-from-the-sea albacore tuna loin we purchased stayed so moist and tender during grilling, often times a fish that easily dries out. What perfectly topped it was the mango salsa. The sweetness of the mango balanced beautifully with the fresh cilantro, onion and lime juice. It’s also a great addition to grilled pork or chicken.

Mango Salsa

1 fresh mango, diced
1/4 cup red onion, chopped
2 tablespoon fresh cilantro, chopped
Juice of one lime
2 tablespoon olive oil
1 teaspoon salt
Fresh ground black pepper to taste
optional: 1 small Thai chili pepper or 1/2 jalapeno pepper, seeded and finely chopped

In a bowl, combine all of the above ingredients. If the mango is firm, mash the chopped pieces a bit with a fork.

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Categories:	Cooking tips • Fish & Seafood • Herbs	9 Comments
Tags:	fish • Food • foodista • grilling • mango • salsa • seafood • tuna

I was asked the other night how long you are supposed to cook crab. Good question! I grew up in the Pacific Northwest and have cooked and cleaned plenty of crab, yet I had never considered that it could be a daunting task for many. Silly, since I had no idea how to cook and clean a lobster when I visited my friend on Nantucket.

Many people get squirmy at the thought of plopping a live creature in boiling water. Personally, it’s not my favorite thing either, but according to my trusted fishmonger at Pike Place Market, there is no scientific evidence that crustaceans feel pain. That “screaming” you hear when you drop them in the water? That’s actually just air escaping their bodies.

Cooking

Bring a large pot of heavily-salted or seasoned water to boil. Add the crabs and bring back to a full boil. Once back to a boil start your timer.

For crabs up to 1 1/4 pound, cook for 15 minutes.
For crabs up to 2 pounds, cook for 20 minutes.
For crabs up to 3 1/4 pounds, cook for 25 minutes.
Anything larger, cook for 30 minutes.

Remove from water and let cool before you clean.

Cleaning

1. Break of the claws and legs, making sure to remove the knuckle too (the closest joint to the body).
2. Flip the crab over and lift and break off the tail flap.
3. There’s a small gap between the top and bottom shells on the “butt” of the crab. Push a knife blade into that gap and twist to pry the shells apart. You can also pull apart with your hands.
4. Remove the “dead man’s finger’s,” the gray gills on either side of the body, and throw away.
5. Using a teaspoon, scoop out the soft brown substance in the center of the body. This part is known as the “tamale,” and is considered a delicacy in many countries. In Japan it is called kani miso.
6. Cut the body section in half lengthwise.

Usually I serve cracked crab in a big bowl from which everyone can feast. I usually give each leg, especially the the claws, a “pre-crack” to make it easier for people to get to the meat. To do this I simply make a single cut halfway through the leg with kitchen shears. I will give the claws one good whack with the back of a knife blade.

Tips

Eating cracked crab is messy business, so I like to provide each quest with finger bowls filled with warm water and a slice of lemon.

The best tool for picking? The pointy tip of one of the legs. It’s small, manageable, and fits perfectly in all the nook and crannies.

Save the shells and boil them down later for a delicious crab stock.

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Categories:	Cooking tips • Fish & Seafood	4 Comments
Tags:	crab • Food • foodista • pike place market • seafood • Shellfish

I’m not the gambling type, but when we saw Clams Casino on the menu at The Oceanaire, I thought it was definitely something I could bet on. It’s funny, I had never heard of Clams Casino, and in the last two weeks they have surfaced twice.

You might say that Clams Casino are the cousins of Oysters Rockefeller. Both are stuffed with yummy goodness, thrown under the broiler, and served in their own shells. The perfect appetizer on a cool summer eve.

Clams Casino
Recipe courtesy of Giada De Laurentiis

2 tablespoons olive oil
2 ounces sliced pancetta or bacon, finely chopped
1 cup finely diced red bell pepper
1/3 cup chopped shallots
2 large garlic cloves, minced
1/4 teaspoon dried oregano
1/3 cup dry white wine
4 tablespoons freshly grated Parmesan
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
18 medium (2 1/2-inch) littleneck clams, shucked, bottom shells reserved

Heat the oil in a heavy large skillet over medium heat. Add the pancetta and saute until crisp and golden, about 3 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the pancetta to a plate. Add the bell pepper, shallots, garlic, and oregano to the same skillet and saute until the shallots are tender and translucent, about 5 minutes. Add the wine and simmer until it is almost evaporated, about 2 minutes. Remove the skillet from the heat and cool completely. Stir the reserved pancetta and 2 tablespoons of Parmesan cheese into the vegetable mixture. Season the mixture, to taste, with salt and pepper.

Preheat the oven to 500 degrees F.

Line a heavy large baking sheet with foil. Arrange the clams in the reserved shells on the baking sheet. Spoon the vegetable mixture atop the clams, dividing equally and mounding slightly. Sprinkle with the remaining 2 tablespoons of Parmesan. Bake until the clams are just cooked through and the topping is golden, about 10 minutes.

Arrange the clams on the platter and serve.

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Categories:	Fish & Seafood • Uncategorized	Leave a Comment
Tags:	clams • clams casino • Food • foodista • seafood • Shellfish

Barnaby has the uncanny ability to look into the fridge and be able to whip up some fabulous gourmet meal. I, on the other hand, will take a look and immediately say, “We have nothing, nothing at all. We need to go to the store.”

Last night was one such night. I saw nothing and Barnaby saw a cornucopia of delectables. So he took over (hmm, maybe I should just start feigning culinary ineptness more often!). What he grabbed from the depths of our pantry and cold storage was this:

Freezer: clams in an abundance of their juice, a fillet of King salmon and a few halibut cheeks.
Fridge: a bit of fennel, mayonnaise
Pantry: an onion, a carton of good quality tomato sauce, saffron threads, white wine, chili powder, the remainder of a loaf of pugliese, truffle oil…I’m sure I’m missing some other minor ingredients, but you get the gist.

The result of his genius was a beautiful and ever so scrumptious non-traditional bouillabaisse. We named it Pacific Northwest Bouillabaisse due to two of its key ingredients: halibut cheeks and King salmon. He didn’t stop there, oh no, he served it with toast drizzled with a bit of truffle oil and a rouille on the side (you want to move in with us, don’t you?).

It was the best darn scavenged meal I think I’ve ever had.

For further eating pleasure:

Here’s a great classic bouillabaisse recipe from Simply Recipes.
Jacques Pépin’s Chicken Bouillabaisse from Food and Wine.

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Categories:	Cooking tips • Fish & Seafood • French • Herbs • Sauces • Seasoning & Spices • Shellfish • Soup • Veggies	2 Comments
Tags:	bouillabaisse • clams • cooking • eating • fennel • fish • Food • foodista • halibut cheeks • rouille • saffron • salmon • seafood • Shellfish • Soup • tomato • truffle oil

“Pssst! Hey, man, you got any of the good stuff? I ask sotto voce. No, I am not looking to buy controlled substances on a seedy street corner. The good stuff I’m looking for are fresh halibut cheeks. I guess you could say it is an addiction of sorts. This delicacy is quite hard to find, so when halibut is in peak season I race to the fish market hoping to score.

Halibut cheeks are so sweet and tender they resemble lobster; thin disks with a flaky texture and deliciously rich. Because of its wonderful natural flavor, halibut cheeks require little in the way of preparation. In fact, just a bit of salt, pepper and a squeeze of and some lemon zest does just the trick.

If you would like a more robust preparation it would be worth your while to check out Chef’s Blog by Jeremy McLachlan, Executive Chef of the famous Salty’s on Alki Beach in Seattle, Washington. Here he shares his oh-my-holy-halibut-cheeks-that-sounds-delicious recipe for Pan-Seared Halibut Cheeks Oscar with Celeriac mashed Potatoes, Asparagus, Dungeness Crab and Sauce Béarnaisse.

Also check out Halibut Cheeks with Pomegranate Sauce from The Omnivore’s Solution

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Categories:	Fish & Seafood	Leave a Comment
Tags:	alki beach • cheeks • fish • Food • foodista • halibut • halibut cheeks • saltys • seafood • seattle • washington

The other day I wrote about Zuppa di Vongole and have since been asked how to get clams sand-free. There is nothing worse than tucking into a nice dish of clams only to find yourself chewing on gritty sand.

Soft-shelled (also called fryers, steamers or long-necks), razor and geoduck (pronounced gooey-duck) clams are the biggest culprits for retaining sand. Because their shells gape open and don’t completely close up once out of the water they’re unable to fully purge themselves of sand.

Most hard-shelled clams contain little sand and usually just require a good rinse and scrub of their shells. But, I say soak the buggers. Better safe than sorry.

Here are a couple of methods of “de-gritting” your clams: an overnight method and a quick method. First, rinse and scrub (gently scrub the soft-shelled variety) clams first under cool running water until water runs clear, then follow one of the methods below:

Overnight Cleanse
Stir one cup salt into 3 quarts of water, making sure there is enough solution to cover the clams. Stir until all the salt is dissolved and soak overnight (or at least 2-3 hours) in the refrigerator.

Quick Cleanse – Electrify the clams!
To do this place the clams in your sink and run cold water over the back of a stainless steel spoon continuously for about 10-15 minutes. An electrical charge is created by the water flowing over the stainless steel. Oh, the magic of physics! As the clams react to the fresh water and the electricity they will spit the sand as well as the fluids that remain in their systems. Make sure they are completely submerged in the water so that they can completely process the water through their bivalves.

So there you go, clean clams, no more sandy grit!

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Categories:	Cooking tips • Fish & Seafood	5 Comments
Tags:	clams • cleaning clams • Cooking tips • Food • foodista • seafood • Shellfish • vongole