The other night, on our way to dinner in the Sunset District of San Francisco, we stumbled upon a wonderful little Russian market. Being from Manhattan, where smoked fish abounds, Barnaby was immediately drawn to the shiny fish-filled glass encasement. He had the same look on his face that I get when I walk into Tiffany’s. Wide-eyed, glassy and sporting a silly grin. I don’t blame him, it’s genetic, his father is the same way when met with fish.

What was most beautiful was the large, whole, three-day smoked sturgeon that had just arrived that day and had yet to be sliced into. At $19 a pound we took a chunk and added a whole smoked mackerel as well for a mere $4 and change. Sunday brunch is calling…

When Barnaby was a child his father would bring out the toaster oven and set it and an assortment of bagels, cheeses and spreads, smoked fish and fish pâtés on the dining table for a self-toast-and-serve Sunday feast. We’ve continued this tradition on the occasional lazy Sunday. Whenever we stumble upon a good cheese, maybe a fine stinky Stilton, or a beautifully smoked fish, we’ll look at each other in agreement and say, “Let’s do a Dorfman breakfast this weekend.” Then we’ll build the menu around that one prized ingredient: the best bagels we can get outside of New York, maybe some chopped chicken liver or a bit of smoked sable, thinly sliced red onion and cucumber, some tomatoes and capers…you name it.

Try your own Dorfman Sunday feast at home some weekend. Brew a big pot of a Earl Grey tea, grab your favorite section of the New York Times and enjoy a delicious leisurely morning with your loved one.

Don’t know where to get great smoked fish? Zabar’s in New York can ship it, and many other delicacies, to you just check out their Fish Counter.

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