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Garnacha: The Wine That Goes With (Almost) Everything

Jameson — Wed, 17 Mar 2010 16:56:54 +0000

Whenever I visit my mother in Reno, I always take advantage of her palatial kitchen (which is about as big as my studio apartment) to make her favorite dish: pork tenderloin. I never buy any specific spices for the pork, I just empty out the spice rack and create a new rub each time. The most recent rub included: salt and pepper (duh), pasilla chile powder, garlic powder, paprika, and Italian seasoning. And maybe a few other things that I cannot recall. I do not measure the spices nor know how the flavors will work together but, luckily, pork tenderloin is a pretty blank canvas that can take a lot of seasoning. I started by searing the tenderloin in a pan. To get the pork ready to finish in the oven, I sliced up some apple and onion to make a bed for it on the bottom of a shallow baking dish. Hmm…maybe I should add some liquid? Why not pour in a little Old Rasputin Imperial Stout from the bottle I was enjoying to help keep the pork moist? When it was time to take it out of the oven I let it rest, sliced it, and served a reduction of the beer with the apples and onions on top.

Now what wine do you drink with a pork tenderloin with a motley spice rub and an apple/onion/stout sauce? It called for some Spanish Garnacha (aka Grenache). Something about Grenache, with it’s rich body, peppery/spicy notes, and low tannin make it work with just about anything from chicken to pork and even beef. And Spanish Grenache, like the old-vine Las Rocas, also has loads of fruit that compliments all kinds of disparate savory ingredients. I think the only red as versatile would be Cotes-du-Rhone, which is not surprising as it is usually Grenache-based. But I find the Spanish examples usually ramp up the fruit, which really ties everything together.

So how do you go about creating a spice rub? The everybody-in-the-pool technique or is there more of a method to your madness?

Jameson Fink is a wine buyer at a bustling grocery store in Seattle’s Capitol Hill neighborhood. He moved to Seattle from Chicago (where he dabbled in the restaurant and wine industries) five years ago to pursue a full-time career in wine. He’d rather be drinking Champagne and eating popcorn right now.

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The Most Intimidating Wines In The World (Part One): Bordeaux

Jameson — Wed, 17 Feb 2010 17:57:34 +0000

Ugh. Bordeaux. I have images of aristocratic Brits circa 1890 declaring that the claret (a old, British term for Bordeaux when it was a much, much lighter red) they are enjoying is fine but needs another ten years in the cellar. (And everyone in the gentlemen’s club nods in agreement.)

So maybe you get past the image of Bordeaux as the stuffiest of wines. Then you are confronted with a most intimidating label, like the one pictured above. I have worked in the wine industry for nine years and I am still mystified by these wines. Let’s recap:

Grand Vin de Bordeaux
Fleur de Fonplégade
Saint-Emilion Grand Cru

Huh? And then I have to tell you it’s approaching $50 a bottle. Now my job as a wine retailer just got exponentially more difficult. Now I know why we sell oceans of Yellow Tail; not that I’m for dumbing it down, but the French sure don’t make it easy.

Fortunately, the Fleur de Fonplégade has a back label. Where I find out that this is a blend of 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon. Like most wines from the right bank of Bordeaux, of which Saint-Emilion is one of the most prestigious sights, they are Merlot-driven. And Merlot is not the devil nor the foundation of all wines insipid; I can’t believe that obnoxious movie Sideways still casts a shadow over the world of wine.

I should also note that the Fleur is the second wine of Chateau Fonplégade. Often many of the most prestigious wineries of Bordeaux make a second wine that used to be an afterthought, but now has the same degree of care and quality that made the first wine so notable. This is where you find (relative) bargains in Bordeaux. Oh, and Grand Vin at the top of the label? It looks impressive and sounds regal, but it’s really a meaningless classification.

Most importantly, this is not a wine that needs to be cellared for decades before it can be enjoyed. This is a lovely, elegant red that is drinking beautifully now. And it’s not some tannic beast that chips your enamel and makes you gums bleed. The Fleur is, simply, a true pleasure. And though versatile enough that you can enjoy it with heartier fish such as salmon (maybe with a side of grilled mushrooms), it certainly would be exceptional with rich, fatty meats like duck.

Bordeaux: now less confounding, more delicious.

Jameson Fink is a wine buyer at a bustling grocery store in Seattle’s Capitol Hill neighborhood. He moved to Seattle from Chicago, where he dabbled in the restaurant and wine industries, five years ago to pursue a full-time career in wine. He’d rather be drinking Champagne and eating popcorn right now.

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Label Lust: Siete

Jameson — Wed, 10 Feb 2010 17:30:48 +0000

As a grocery store wine buyer, I am always on the lookout for wines with unique and interesting labels. They look great on the shelf and especially when stacked by the case. (If the wine comes in an equally cool box with similar graphics, I practically swoon.) Generally I dread labels that are too busy and/or corny, or ones that were created by a relative of the winery owner. Having a family member design a wine label based on their folksy, amateurish art is like loaning them money: never a good idea.

I absolutely love the domino label of the Siete. It’s clean, unique, and reinforces the name of the wine. You’ve got to pick it up and look at it! I wish I was a domino enthusiast so I could bring it to a tournament; it might even inspire me to play. (I also wish it had a talking label that would play a certain domino-inspired Ice Cube quote from Boyz in the Hood that is too profane for fair Foodista. I suggest you find it on YouTube.)

And lest you think I’m all surface and no substance, I must tell you that the wine is delicious. It’s a Tempranillo/Garnacha blend from the Navarra region of Spain, and is certified organic. I also like that it’s unoaked so you don’t get beat up by aggressive vanilla extract flavors that oak barrels can impart. I don’t think oak is the devil, but I find unoaked reds to be very pure and refreshing. And much better with food. The Siete would be great with chicken or pork, maybe with an nice zesty spice rub and some char from the grill.

So what gets your attention (or your goat) when it comes to wine labels?

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Drink Inside the Box

Jameson — Wed, 03 Feb 2010 16:11:26 +0000

I have extolled the virtues of all wines esoteric, obscure, and bizarrely named and packaged. An Austrian Zweigelt in a one-liter bottle sealed with a bottle cap? Check. A German Riesling called Dragonstone? Done that. Carmenere from Chile? Naturally.

Now it’s time to get really crazy, just in time for the big game on Sunday. How about trying a Pinot Grigio (how insipid!) from California (pedestrian!) and in a box (the horror!).

Ladies and Gentlemen, I present to you the 2008 Bandit Pinot Grigio. A $7ish one liter of crisp, dry white that is good. Now, there are varying degrees of good. But for a big 1L box of white wine (which really makes the 750ml bottle price around 5 bucks) it’s easy to drink and very refreshing. Naturally there are also some benefits carbon-footprint-wise of shipping a Tetra Pak vs. a bottle. I don’t get too wrapped up with that, as I walk to work and I will drink imports until I die, but it’s an added bonus from an environmental (and marketing) standpoint.

This is the kind of wine you toss into a cooler, break out at a party (like Superbowl Sunday), on a boat, at the campsite, in the pool (be careful!) or the (ahem) hot tub, and don’t have to worry about shattering glass. And you can smush it down when you are done for easy disposal.

And if you have any hangups about pouring wine from a box? Just get an empty wine bottle, rinse it out, float off the label, fill from the box to the bottle via a funnel, and tell your guests they will be enjoying a simple, refreshing white.

So how do you feel about box wine?

PS: It was very tasty with some salmon, quinoa, and a little cool cucumber/lemon salad. It was not so tasty with my sub-par broiled asparagus. The tips were nice and crispy but the ends were a little fibrous and woody. I didn’t trim them well enough. I am a terrible person.

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Possibly the Best $10 Wine in the World

Jameson — Wed, 27 Jan 2010 17:38:52 +0000

As a wine buyer operating in a recession/depression/meltdown, my mantra is: Cheap and Cheerful. I want my salespeople to bring me fun, eclectic, tasty, interesting wines for under ten bucks. Very rarely, however, do I find what I call a WOW wine that I feel is not just good, but great considering it is below the ten dollar threshold.

The 2008 Viu Manent Reserve Carmenere, from Chile, is my pick for those looking for an amazing ten dollar wine. Carmenere is a fairly obscure grape from Bordeaux that has made its way to Chile, where it is the country’s signature grape. (Although they thought it was Merlot for years before identifying it as Carmenere.) It has the one-two punch of truly interesting aromas and flavors. Now what are those aromas and flavors? Here is where I must demure. Why? I read endless reviews of wines from such publications as Wine Spectator and The Wine Advocate stating that wine X has aromas of scorched earth, tar, leather, bramble, boysenberry, kirsch, blah blah blah. When you try a Carmenere, I want you to come to your own conclusions rather than predispose you towards certain results. I also find most wine reviews to be exercises in ego-stroking (and astonishing redundancy and arbitrariness), where the writer wants their laundry list of descriptors to become a self-fulfilling prophecy when the wine is consumed. (“Oh yeah, I do get whiffs of tobacco and spice box.”)

I will say this about Carmenere: once you smell and taste it, you will be able to pick it out of a lineup of red wines. It is distinct and delicious. This rich, complex red would be lovely with grilled meats and/or mushrooms.

So what is your pick for the world’s best $10 wine?

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Ribs and Rosé: The Ultimate BBQ Match

Jameson — Wed, 20 Jan 2010 17:31:30 +0000

A drab, dreary January in Seattle (is there any other kind?) could not defeat my desire to indulge in my favorite summer duo: ribs and rosé. I am done with the notion that Zinfandel is the ultimate wine with BBQ. Why do you want a high alcohol, oaky red with your highly seasoned, vinegary, sweet, and spicy meat? All a Zinfandel does is inflame and obscure. A lovely dry rosé is refreshing and compliments flavors such as garlic, cumin, chili powder, and that sweet/tart combo that great sauces have.

I used Alton Brown’s recipe, which is a godsend for making ribs indoors. The sauce (or, rather, glaze) is not some sticky, sweet tomato-based sauce but rather a reduction of white wine, garlic, vinegar, honey, and Worcestershire. It took a lot longer than 2 1/2 hours to cook; more like 4 1/2 hours! And I regret not broiling the cooked ribs longer to caramelize the fat on top more, but, after being over two hours late, the natives were restless. And tipsy.

Once again I am amazed at the versatility of rosé from everything from vegetables to seafood to chicken and, yes, even ribs. Summer on a plate and in the glass!

The rosé of choice was the always reliable 2009 Mulderbosch Rosé, from South Africa. It’s a 100% Cabernet rosé and is absolutely delicious. (I also love the textured label; you must hold a bottle in your hands!)

(Also please note that I am drinking out of a Ball jar. Unless I am drinking bubbles or a fancy-pants wine, I really prefer to drink out of something resembling a rocks glass.)

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Christmas Dinner Wine: From A to Zweigelt

Jameson — Wed, 23 Dec 2009 08:23:11 +0000

Let’s start with A, which stands for Anything You Like. Drink what you like! Christmas covers everything from turkey to standing rib roast to takeout Chinese to whatever your tradition is. There is no right (or wrong) answer when it comes to wine. So I’m going to jump to the end of the alphabet and, as a bookend to A, suggest that Z is for Zweigelt. Specifically, the 2008 Hofer Zweigelt. In a one liter bottle. Sealed with a bottle cap. And, if you thought it couldn’t get any better, it’s certified organic!

So what’s so great about it? Let’s start with the bottle cap seal. No need for a corkscrew! Ever open a bottle of beer? You’re good to go. And the big one liter bottle keeps you at the holiday table longer, with 33% more wine than those measly, standard 750ml size bottles. Oh, I guess I should tell you a bit about what’s inside the bottle. It’s an Austrian red made from the Zweigelt grape. A bit of an esoteric and obscure pick, I admit, but these are the kind I wines I find charming. If you like Pinot Noir or Beaujolais, this is a great wine: light, fresh, and easy to drink. Delicious! And it plays nice with a wide range of foods. Uncork Uncap and enjoy!

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Wine from Scratch: Out with Old Wine, In with New!

Marcus — Wed, 16 Dec 2009 19:55:43 +0000

I don’t know about you, but I have a tendency to purchase too much wine. In truth this can be both a blessing and a curse. On one side, I always have plenty of wine on hand for any occasion, but then I miss the opportunity to try new things because of my abundance of wine already sitting around at home.

The Holidays provide a great opportunity for “out with the old, in with the new” when it comes to your wine collection. Parties and entertaining allow you to polish off those lingering bottles from spending sprees past, and crack into some of those aging greats.

This is especially important in my house because I have a tendency to forget about aging bottles that need to be consumed. Some people have the time and effort to track dates, growing season reports, and the balance/body of a specific wine in order to insure age-ability, but I’m not one of them. I like my wine fresh and vibrant, normally preferring to drink a bottle within the first few years of its life, not after extended aging.

Besides assisting in the consumption of old bottles, the holidays also provide the opportunity to try new, unexplored wines and varieties. For example, if you’re dying to try a bottle but can’t commit to buying it for yourself (just another bottle for the collection) then pick it up as a gift for an upcoming holiday party or dinner. After all, ‘tis the season to be merry, which means that the wine should be consumed that night, giving you a chance to try it.

Through copious amounts of celebration this holiday season you should be able to put a good dent in your collection, depending on the number of bottles and your capacity to party. Then, just before the big day, Christmas or New Years, you’ll have the space for some new bottles to enjoy or save for the upcoming year.

Note, post Christmas sales also provide a great opportunity to pick-up some quality wines at special values. So party now, celebrate later, and ring in the New Year with some delicious new wine. Cheers!

** Marcus Pape has worked in media and design for over 10 years with an extensive background in all forms of visual communication. As a proclaimed vinophile Marcus hopes to leverage his abilities to inspire interest in wine, recently launching WineCHATr.com – an online resource for the growing wine community, where both popular wine bloggers and businesses come together to connect and share information on wine.

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You Can’t Pair Wine With Brussels Sprouts!

Jameson — Wed, 09 Dec 2009 16:24:41 +0000

There are all kinds of Wine 101 rules that need to be unlearned or abolished concerning foods that are purportedly difficult to pair with wines, especially certain vegetables. Why not focus on Brussels sprouts? I adore Brussels sprouts!

Now what is the best way to cook them? Roast, roast, roast! Preheat your oven to 425 degrees and commit to memory this arduous recipe, with steps more complicated than putting together a credenza from Ikea:

You need Brussels sprouts (duh), olive oil, and salt. Toss the sprouts with the oil and salt and dump into a baking dish. It’s best to put them in a single layer so they get all brown and crispy. Put the dish on your lowest oven rack. It’s going to take about 20 minutes but DO NOT GO ANYWHERE. You’ll need to constantly shake the pan to make sure they do not burn; you want crispy bits, not charcoal. Depending on the size you may want to cut them in half; the ones I had were teeny tiny.

To serve, I would just put them in a bowl and eat them like candy. And what wine to enjoy with your lovely sprouts? I can think of five off the bat:

Sauvignon Blanc: Here is where the slightly vegetal Sauv Blancs of New Zealand can shine, but I would recommend the cheap and cheerful Porcupine Ridge from South Africa.
Chenin Blanc: I’m thinking a straightforward, crisp and clean version like the Cave de Saumur “Les Epinats” from France’s Loire Valley.
Riesling: I’d go for a German Riesling with a great balance of sweetness and acidity; nothing cloying here. Look for the Leitz Dragonstone. (And who doesn’t want to try a wine called “Dragonstone?” Cool.)
Dry Rosé: I love rosé with green veggies! It always works great in the summer with green beans, so why not your winter, cabbage-y veg? Just ask your wine merchant for a dry rosé; they are probably panicking over any inventory they have left over from summer, and are ready to deal. (Though I must stress that rosés are a joy to drink year-round. A joy!)
Bubbles, bubbles, bubbles. When in doubt, the refreshing acidity in bubbles makes a great compliment to vegetables. Again, ask your wine merchant for a decent bottle of Cava or Cremant for about 15-20 bucks. Or why not a sparkling rosé?

Happy roasting and drinking!

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Young Winos

Melissa — Fri, 20 Nov 2009 00:29:07 +0000

American food and beverage trends come and go, some staying longer than others and some have just refuse to go away. But when it comes to wine consumption, it seems like the trend just continues to grow year after year. What’s interesting about wine right now is the age in which it is being consumed. Twenty somethings and young thirty somethings are lining up at winery tasting bars and wine-focused restaurants eager to know more about the flavor profiles of varietals and learn which wines pair well with which foods. Sites like Winechatr.com and magazines like Wine x magazine and WINO magazine, though great resource for anyone who loves wine, heavily cater to younger wine drinkers. And why not? According to a 2007 survey of consumer trends in the U.S. wine market, conducted by the Wine Market Council, twenty somethings are by far the fastest growing group of wine drinkers. The surge in wine tasting parties over cocktail parties, weekend wine tastings in Napa’s wine country and the popularity of events like 20Something- The New Vintage are just a couple of examples of the rise of younger wine drinkers. The survey also showed that 53 percent said they are spending $20 or more on wine more frequently. Is this considered a good thing? Does this rise coincide with the new food movement? Perhaps it’s because there are more wineries year after year and it is becoming just part of the norm to understand wine. I personally believe chefs that know their wines are better chefs. Learning about wine should be as much of a requirement as learning about food and to that I say earlier the better!

Above wine tattoo photo by Rambleonsylvie

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Wine from Scratch: A Practical Approach

Marcus — Wed, 04 Nov 2009 19:56:05 +0000

For many, learning about wine can seem like a pretty daunting task. Where do I start? What do I need to know? How do I go about getting the right info? Rather than overwhelming yourself with the details it’s better to jump right in and get your hands dirty- or in this case, your mouth.

4 Steps to Knowing What You’re Drinking

1. One Grape at a Time

Blends (wines made using multiple grape varieties) can produce fantastic results. But when you’re just learning it’s best to go one grape at a time. Start by picking up a few different varietal specific wines, containing at least 75% of one grape. Common grapes such as Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon, Sangiovese, Chardonnay, and Sauvignon Blanc work the best due to brand diversity and availability. Then simply drink the wine and take notes on what you smell and taste. You’ll eventually begin to discover common flavors and aromas in the wines/varieties you enjoy.

2. Style is Key

Once you’ve got a handle on a few basic grape varieties and the flavors that go with them it’s time to figure out what style of wine you prefer. Wines of the same variety can come in many different styles (eg. acidic, smooth, bold, fruity). Find wines of the same variety but from different producers or regions and give them a try. You’ll eventually have a handful of favorites that will help in narrowing down what style of wine you prefer. Having some favorites is especially handy when your wine merchant or server asks what kind of wine you like.

3. Get Experimental

From your tasting escapades you should now be comfortable with several different grape varieties and have a general idea of the style of wine you prefer. Time to shake things up a bit. Visit your local wine shop and ask the merchant to help you pick out some unique varietals or wines from other regions, based on your stylistic preferences. This is a great way to extend your wine comfort zone and discover some great new wines or wine producing areas. Obscure varietals and regions can also provide quite a cost savings, which we can all appreciate.

4. Visit the Source

Now that you have a solid wine tasting foundation it’s time to take your knowledge on the road. Of the wines you tasted there should have been some from the local area. If not go back to the store and ask about local producers that fit your style. Then once you’ve picked out a few favorites visit those places. Wine is more than a beverage it’s an experience, and to truly understand and appreciate it you need to visit the source. And as I’ve mentioned, reliving these experiences sure beats discussing flavor profiles all day.

Now get out there and drink some wine. We’ll worry about filling in the other details later. Cheers!

* Marcus Pape has worked in media and design for over 10 years with an extensive background in all forms of visual communication. As a proclaimed vinophile Marcus hopes to leverage his abilities to inspire interest in wine, recently launching WineCHATr.com – an online resource for the growing wine community, where both popular wine bloggers and businesses come together to connect and share information on wine.

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I Don’t Like Red Wine With Cheese

Jameson — Wed, 14 Oct 2009 13:00:18 +0000

Did I get your attention? Good. Just trying to be deliberately provocative. Maybe it was too many college parties with bulk red wine and bricks of generic cheddar that colored my early wine and cheese days, but I think white wines do so much better than reds with cheese. Yeah, I’ve had Epoisses with Burgundy IN Burgundy, with atmosphere dripping and charm in abundance, and enjoyed it. But even with the stinkiest, richest cheeses, I think a dry white, a sparkling wine, or a white with a touch of sweetness just works better with the cheese. I won’t pick on Pinot Noir too much, but big reds with powerful tannins and heavy oak are just plain awkward with cheese.

I encourage you to pick up a variety of rich, creamy, and/or sharp cheeses that purportedly are good with reds and throw a few whites in the mix. And don’t be afraid of a little sweetness, like the kind you find in wines like Vouvray or Riesling (which also have good balancing acidity); I feel that the acidity lasers through the richness and the sweetness tempers the strong, earthy flavors of highly aromatic cheeses.

Here’s a slam-dunk, white wine and cheese pairing to get you started, but don’t be afraid to experiment. Bring a white to your next wine and cheese party. Shock the world!

A trio of South American whites were fantastic with a fresh, young, soft goat cheese:

2008 Crios de Susana Balbo Torrontes (Argentina)
2008 Veramonte Sauvignon Blanc Reserva (Chile)
2007 Cono Sur Sauvignon Blanc Vision (Chile)

The Torrontes, a floral, aromatic white that reminds me of a lighter version of Viognier, was very good with the cheese but the Sauv Blancs were the star. The high acidity and subtle grassiness of the wines were a perfect compliment to the goat cheese. Stop buying the overly vegetal, stewed green bean-smelling Sauv Blanc from New Zealand; Chile is producing some delicious Sauv Blanc for around ten bucks.

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Wine from Scratch: A Global Approach to Wine

Marcus — Wed, 07 Oct 2009 19:26:10 +0000

Anyone that knows me knows how obsessed I can be about getting information. Hey, what can I say, I’m a do it yourselfer with an addiction for answers. This is especially true when it comes to wine. There’s just so much to know, that sometimes I have trouble drawing the line between beverage and obsession. Ask my wife, she’ll tell you!

I’m not one to just walk the line, or drink the grape flavored Kool-Aid as they say. I want to know why things are the way they are. If someone tells me that I need to lay a bottle down for a few years before drinking, I want to know why. When a waiter hands me the cork at a restaurant, what’s that all about? These are things I want to know.

So, on a recent trip to Italy, you can imagine how frustrated I was when I realized that I truly knew nothing about the world of wine. Don’t get me wrong; I knew all about the grapes, the growing regions, and how the wine was made, etc. But what I was truly clueless about was the global culture of it all and how differently wine is perceived in other parts of the world.

In Italy, for example, wine is an everyday phenomenon. It’s ingrained in the culture. At local events and festivals they erect portable wine bars. Not because it’s a “wine event”, but because it’s an event. Wine is sold in ice cream shops and coffee bars. It’s everywhere. Grandparents drink it. Young adults drink it. Even kids drink it. There’s no level of knowledge that has to be reached before you’re deemed worthy enough to truly appreciate wine.

This open approach to wine is unlike many “new world” countries (areas outside the traditional wine-growing areas of Europe) with shorter wine histories, where we have a tendency to overanalyze wine instead of just enjoying it. On this point, I’m as guilty as the next person. Everything I thought I knew about wine came from the bottle or glass, magazines or books. But for many people around the world, including those in Italy, wine is a lifestyle, a cultural constant passed down for generations.

So, I invite you to join me as I start over in order to gain a more global appreciation for fermented grape juice. It’s time to roll up our sleeves and learn about wine from scratch.

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Food and Wine Pairings: Two Happy Accidents

Jameson — Wed, 30 Sep 2009 13:00:21 +0000

Editor’s Note: Foodista is pleased to introduce Jameson Fink as our new wine contributor. Jameson is an accomplished wine steward with much to share. Look forward to “Wine Wednesday” each week for tasting notes, pairings, and more!

As a wine steward at a grocery store, I spend a significant chunk of my day helping people select wines to go with their meal. I take a lot of pride in making thoughtful suggestions, and I always try to have fun and keep things relaxed. My goal is to demolish the stereotype of boorish know-it-all wine snobs with nothing to offer conversationally but their specialized knowledge. So while I can talk your ear off about matching food and wine for a frighteningly long time, I am often pleasantly surprised how well food and wine work together with just a modicum of effort and a little bit of luck. Last night’s dinner was a case in point.

We started with some crostini and a fresh herb cream cheese with (because it was not rich enough already) some butter whipped in. I just happened to bring along a very tart apple left over from last week’s trip to the Farmers Market. The 2007 Jadot Pouilly-Fuisse, a French Chardonnay, that we began with had touches of buttery richness and texture from moderate oak influence as well as snappy fruit and acidity. A bite of crostini with cheese, a slice of apple, and a big sip of wine turned out to be the perfect start to the evening, when it was still warm and bright enough to be outside.

For our main course we retreated inside. I had some baby eggplant and Walla Walla onion that I had roasted with nothing but salt and olive oil. I dumped in some tomato sauce, wilted some arugula, finished with Parmesan-Reggiano, and served over penne. I wasn’t sure how the 2001 Falesco Marciliano (an Italian Cabernet Sauvignon/Cabernet Franc Blend) was drinking and if it would work with the food; all I knew is that I wanted to drink it. It turned out great. With a few years of bottle-age, the Marciliano had taken on some nice secondary, Bordeaux-like qualities. I’m trying to think of a better way to describe these characteristics than “green” or “vegetal” but I am a bit stumped. The wine was fantastic with the sweet, rich eggplant and the arugula bite at the end really played well with the bottle-age on the wine. I was really surprised how well it went considering there was no meat in this dish.

So while there is a time and a place to nerd out over matching food and wine, most of the time it’s just best to enjoy the company, the food, and the wine. The worst case scenario is that maybe you learn a little bit about what doesn’t work. (Unless you are having something like Malbec and oysters. That is truly awful sounding.) So what are some of your favorite wine pairings? Or ones you tried that made you wince?

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Corn Pudding

Tracy Sarich — Sat, 18 Oct 2008 22:27:40 +0000

Tonight Barnaby, Sheri, and my husband John and I are joining other friends and Barnaby’s parents for dinner. We are making Donna Brazile’s mama’s gumbo from her book Cooking with Grease: Stirring the Pots in America. Donna graced us with her presence at an event for the Washington Women Lawyers last week and inspired us personally, politically, and yes – gastronomically. As our contribution, John and I are bringing this corn pudding and two South African wines – Goats in Villages, a Shiraz Pinotage blend from South African winemaker Goats Do Roam, and a Sauvignon Blanc from Porcupine Ridge, another South African bottle from the Cape of Good Hope. Laissez les bon temps rouler!

Corn Pudding

Butter: 1 stick
Corn: yellow or white, frozen or fresh, 5 cups (approx 6-8 ears)
Shallots: 1/2 cup (finely minced)
Jalepenos: 1/4 cup (or to taste, seeded; finely minced)
Onion: 2 tablespoons (finely minced)
Milk: 1 cup
Half-and-Half: 1 cup
Yellow Cornmeal or Polenta: 1/2 cup
Ricotta Cheese: 1 cup
Eggs: 5 large or 4 extra-large (I don’t use extra-large eggs, my mom said they come from older chickens – not sure if that’s true, but it’s turned me away from the big ones – if you have thoughts on this, I’d love to hear it.)
Herbs: chives or basil is nice, though you can experiment with the herbs or include a mixture (approx 3 tablespoons or to taste)
Sugar: 1 tablespoon
Salt: Kosher, 1 tablespoon
Pepper: 3/4 teaspoon (I prefer a mixture of black and white, but you may use either or include pink and green peppercorns as well if you like)
Cheese: I like to ad 3/4 cup of finely grated extra-sharp cheddar, though you may also want to try other cheeses (save a little to sprinkle on top)
Optional Ingredients: You may also add finely minced red pepper, replace the shallot with onion, add green onions, the choices are almost limited. Experiment and let me know what you think works well.

Preheat oven to 375 degrees.

Grease an 8 to 10 cup backing dish. I like to use individual ramekins for this recipe, which should make 10-12 individual servings.

Melt butter and add shallots, onion and jalepeno. Do not brown. Simply cook for 4-5 minutes in order to mellow out these flavors and avoid a raw taste in your mixture. If you are using fresh corn or adding red pepper or other vegetables, I recommend adding them to this step as well. Cool a little before adding to the batter to avoid cooking the eggs.

Whisk eggs and milk together with ricotta cheese.

Add corn meal/polenta, salt, pepper, and sugar to the wet ingredients. When thoroughly blended add butter/veg mixture above.

Add cheese and pour into the baking dish of your choice. Sprinkle with a little cheese (optional).

Bake in a water bath. For those of you unfamiliar with using a water bath, simply place baking dish in a larger pan and fill the pan 1/2 up the sides with hot tap water.

Bake for 40-45 minutes until the top begins to brown and a knife inserted in the center comes out clean.

Serve warm.

I am preparing this dish for a dinner party tonight and prepared the batter in advance to bake at my Barnaby and Sheri’s house. I plan to assemble the ingredients and bake at their house in order to serve warm and fresh. I was concerned that joining the ingredients too early would cause my pudding to be too oniony – so, I prepared my ingredients into 5 main components: (a) dry ingredients; (b) wet ingredients (milks, eggs, ricotta); (c) butter with vegetables (onions, shallot, jalepeno, etc); (d) grated cheese; (e) herbs; (f) corn (fresh or thawed frozen). I plan to assemble at their house and bake. Next time I make this, I might try to make it souffle-style by beating my egg-whites separately and folding them into the ingredients just before baking. I haven’t tried this yet – so when I do, I will let you know – but if you have, please speak up. I’d love to hear how folding in egg-whites would change the result.

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