Recipe: Pan-Fried Quail [edit]

Step 1

First, make the fresh white grape juice. Crush the cup of grapes in a pestle, then put through a sieve or vegetable mill to extract the juice, or use a potato ricer.

Step 2

Combine the salt, pepper, and thyme, crushing the thyme with your fingertips. Sprinkle both sides of the birds with the seasonings.

Step 3

Melt the butter in a large skillet over medium heat until it foams and just begins to brown. Add the quail, skin-side down. Sprinkle with ham, cover and cook for 3 to 4 minutes, until the skin is golden brown. Turn the birds and continue cooking, covered, until the juices run clear, about 4 minutes longer. Take the pan from the heat and let the quail rest, covered, for about 10 minutes. Arrange the quail on a platter and sprinkle the ham from the pan over them.

Step 4

Pour the fat from the pan. Add the grape juice (you can also use water, if you prefer), and bring to a boil. Cook for 1 minute, scraping the browned bits from the bottom to deglaze the pan. Pour over the quail and serve.

Step 5

Serves 4.

Step 6

This southern recipe was created by Edna Lewis for Gage and Tollner, a Brooklyn restaurant. Mrs. Lewis is a black lady who's been active at restaurants in North and South Carolina. She grew up in Freetown,