Composed salad. The very name is enough to kill your appetite.
After all, why arrange all of those ingredients so carefully if you're just going to toss them together at the table? Along with fluted mushrooms and chaud-froid, composed salads are almost too easy to ridicule.
But let's not be too hasty to poke fun. There's nothing wrong with composed salads that updating won't cure. Like much of classical cuisine, when stripped to their barest components, there is good, sensible food behind the stilted prettiness.
In fact, with good cooks, the decoration never has been the dish's main virtue. In that bible of old-fashioned French cooking, the "Larousse Gastronomique," the name salades composees is translated "combination salads," as opposed to "simple salads," emphasizing the mix of raw and cooked ingredients rather than their artistic arrangement.
Escoffier went one step further, speaking out forcefully against the over-decoration of the dish. "The increased appetizing look resulting therefrom is small compared with the loss in the taste of the preparation," he wrote in "The Escoffier Cook Book." "The simplest form of serving is the best, and fancifulness should not be indulged in." So forget about separating the meat, vegetables and greens into little decorative piles. Arrange them in a more modern, naturalistic way and you've got something delicious that is beautiful without being contrived.
Even better, what you've got is dinner. Because when you get right down to it, a composed salad is the perfect meal for these warm summer nights.
Take a small portion of fish, meat or cheese and arrange it on a colorful bed of vegetables, greens and herbs. Bind the whole thing together with a bold dressing of some sort. What could be better?
Actually, you're probably already making composed salads right now without even thinking about it.
Is there a better - or prettier - dinner on a sweltering weeknight? That's a very basic example.
Today's salads adapt to what you already have in the pantry and refrigerator.
All you need is some sturdy greens, a good dressing and a few condiments and you're in business.