Step 1

The potato has had a roller-coaster history.

Step 2

From South America, itsculture spread rapidly in the years following the discovery of the New World. Spain and Italy grew the potato first on the Continent, and it was firmly established in England by 1629, when John Parkinson, in his A GARDEN OF PLEASANT FLOWERS, pronounced the Virginia potato, as he called it, almost as good as the Spanish potato (we call the latter sweet potato). He recommended cooking this sweet vegetable with wine, sugar, and spices.

Step 3

For sheer comfort, few dishes can equal a steaming baked potato, freshly split, anointed with butter, and sprinkled with salt and pepper. The addition of a meat or cheese topping makes the baked potato a substantial entree.

Step 4

Us a recipe for such a dish.

Step 5

Pierce potatoes in several places with a fork. Set potatoes on oven rack and bake at 400'F. until potatoes give readily when squeezed, about 1 hour.

Step 6

Meanwhile, melt butter in a 1-1/2 to 2 quart pan over medium-high heat. Add onion and stir often until limp, about 5 minutes. Mix milk with cornstarch and stir into pan alongside with buttermilk and marsala.

Step 7

Stir over medium-high heat until boiling. Add cheese and stir until melted.

Step 8

Stir in ham, mustard, and horseradish; if sauce is ready before potatoes, set aside. To use, stir over medium-high heat until hot.

Step 9

Split potatoes in half lengthwise; fluff centers with a fork. Set 2 halves on each plate and spoon sauce onto potatoes. Sprinkle with chopped parsley; season to taste with salt and pepper.