Brown-Butter Creamed Winter Greens

Ingredients

3/4 stick unsalted butter, divided

2 tablespoons all-purpose flour

2 cups whole milk

2 tablespoons minced shallot

1 Turkish or 1/2 California bay leaf

6 black peppercorns

3 1/2 pounds mixed winter greens such as collards, mutard greens, and

6 ounces slab bacon, any rind discarded and bacon cut into ¼ inch thick slices, the cut c

1 cup finely chopped onion

1/2 cup heavy cream

2 garlic cloves, minced

1 teaspoon dried hot red-pepper flakes

1 tablespoon cider vinegar, or to taste

Preparation

Melt 2 tablespoons butter in a saucepan over medium heat, then add flour and cook, stirring, 1 minutes.

Add milk in a stream, whisking, then add shallot, bayleaf, and peppercorns and bring to a boil, whisking.

Simmer, whisking occasionally, 5 minutes.

Strain bechamel sauce through a fine-mesh sieve into a bowl, discarding solids, and cover surface with parchment paper.

Discard stems and center ribs from greens, chop coarsely.

Cook lardons in a heavy pot over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until golden-brown but not crisp, about 8 minutes.

Drain on a paper towel and pour off fat.

Heat remaining 1/2 stick butter in pot over medium-low heat until bronwed and ragrant, about 2 mninutes, then cook onion, stirring, until softened, about 3 minutes.

Increase heat to medium-hgih, then stir in greens, 1 handful at a time, letting each handful wilt before adding next.

Add bechamel, cream, garlic, red-pepper flakes, 3/4 teaspoon salt, and 1/2 teaspoon pepper and boil, uncovered, stirring, until sauce coats greens and greens are tender, about 10 minutes.

Stir in lardons, vinegar, and salt and pepper to taste.