Lovely Leeks
By: Anonymous
Published: Sunday, December 6, 2009 - 12:33am

Preparation

1 Leeks are the hardiest of plants. A killing frost only helped the leeks along. That's what I love most about leeks; at the end of October, when we are headed for a long and still Maine winter, these green soldiers stand tall. In milder climates, gardeners can sow leeks through September for a spring harvest. 2 In many places - even in Northern New England - leeks can still be harvested through the winter. 3 Vermont growers at The Cook's Garden catalog company have dug leeks every month of the year, even though they have sometimes "had to melt the frozen, crusted soil from around the neck before we could bring them into the kitchen!" 4 Once in the kitchen, there is more to discover about leeks: flat, dark green leaves wrapped around each other so tightly, concealing layer upon layer of delicate, sweet, oniony flesh. I love the way the texture feels under the blade of a chef's knife. 5 They can be enjoyed simply: baked, boiled, roasted, or sauteed. They work well sharing the spotlight with other flavors - with goat cheese on a pizza or with potato in a soup - or can mellow into the background in stocks and stews. 6 Use the greens to enhance the flavor of a chicken or vegetable stock. Or, as Amanda Hesser suggests in The Cook and the Gardener,; wrap strips of leek greens around herbs for a bouquet garni. Blanch them, and use as a wrap around stuffing and cheese for an appetizer. 7 Choose leeks with as few blemishes on the white, root end as possible. They should be firm and about an inch in width, from the root up through the stem. If they are bulbous, it's a sign that the plant was about to go to seed and it may be woody. 8 The best leeks are often the dirtiest leeks, since an attentive grower has mounded up the soil at the base of the plant as it grew and dirt will easily collect in the layers. So, cleaning becomes all important. Before using, trim the root end and the leaves. Slit the white part from top to bottom and hold each half under running water, cleaning in-between the layers with your fingers. 9 Or, soak the halves in water for 10 to 15 minutes. Some cooks prefer to use a little vinegar in the soaking solution for its effect on garden critters that may also be hiding in those layers. 10 To grow leeks:Choose a variety based on your preference and climate. 11 Blue Solaise, available through A Cook's Garden, is hardy and large and is used for over-wintering in New England. It is 105 days to maturity. 12 Laura is extra hardy for late fall and over-wintering. The leaves are deep blue. Available through Johnny's Selected Seeds. 13 King Richard is a fast-growing summer leek that takes four months from seeding to harvest. This variety is recommended for baby leeks and is 75 days to maturity. Available through Johnny's and A Cook's Garden. 14 Start seeds indoors two to three months before the last average frost. When the seedlings are three inches tall, thin them to about one inch apart. Thin again when they are five inches tall to about two inches apart. At eight inches tall, they are ready for the garden. Place them in six inch deep holes spaced six inches apart in rows 18 inches apart. The tips of the plants will be just a few inches above the surface. 15 The key to growing leeks is to water and feed them regularly. They grow best in cool, rainy climates. They can also be grown in warm and dry areas with lots of watering and thick layers of mulch to keep the soil cool. Keep the soil evenly moist and give them a nutrient-rich snack - such as manure tea or fish emulsion - once a month during the growing season. 16 When they are about the size of pencils, mound the soil or much around the lower two to three inches of stem to cut out sunlight. The blanching produces more of the tender white part, improving the look and flavor of the leeks. 17 Water them well throughout the growing season, which will be 70 to 110 days, depending on the variety and conditions. To over-winter leeks, get them in the ground before the frost and bury completely with a protective layer of mulch or straw. Cover the bed with an old sheet. Remove it in the spring when the weather is warm, but keep it handy for a night when the temperature plunges below 30 degrees. 18 Harvest when they are about an inch in diameter and not bulbous. Some gardeners leave a few behind to set seed, then in the second year - since leeks are biennials - retrieve matured black seeds from spent clusters of small, white flowers.