ahR Shucks
By: Barnaby Dorfman
Published: July 29, 2009

I'm from New York City, my mother and grandmother were born in Rockville, Maryland. They always told me to never eat oysters in a month without an R (May, June, July, and August). Originally one of the most prolific oyster producing regions in the world, East coast water temperatures vary dramatically from winter to summer. I now live in Seattle, where water temperatures are always cold and people eat oysters year round, but I still hear that bit of folkloric advice from time to time even here. When it comes to food and folklore, I've found that folklore is usually spot on, which got me wondering if there's more to this. My thinking was that it all had to do with modern refrigeration.  Turns out the issue is more complex.
Last night I volunteered to do a bit of oyster shucking at an event for the Northwest Women's Law Center. The oysters were provided by "Oyster Bill" Whitbeck, the market manager for Taylor Shellfish. Bill is one of the world's leading authorities on oysters and co-author of The Joy of Oysters. Since we were about to shuck and serve 17 dozen oysters in July, I asked Bill about the whole "R" thing and offered my theory about water temperature. Bill smiled big and said "Oh that old wive's tale! I get that question all the time." He then went on to explain that, while refrigeration and water temperature used to be a part of the reason people didn't eat oysters in the summer, the most important reason is because that's when oysters spawn. In fact, a law was passed in  1762 in Connecticut prohibiting consumption during those months as a way of combatting the already declining oyster population.  Today, it's still important what type of oyster you choose to eat for each season. Last night we were shucking Pacific Oysters (crassostrea gigas) and Kumamoto (crassostrea skimea) Oysters.

Originally from the warmer waters of Japan, these two varieties are at just the right point in their breeding cycle (just before spawning) during the summer months here in Washington. During spawning, oyters use up much of their stored glycogen (a natural sugar) and lose their firmness. Still perfectly safe, they are just not as tasty. So, if you have been depriving yourself...stop it! Go get some oysters and enjoy! Do be sure to keep them very cold on ice. Also try my Yuzu Shiso Granita as a topping, it was very popular among our guests.
Oh and don't forget the wine pairing! Jameson Fink, local wine steward and blogger at Sparkling Vouvray, brought a great set of whites for us to try. My favorite was an Austrian Grüner Veltliner.

Comments:
Robyn Medlin
August 1, 2009

Thanks for sharing Barnaby! Most people don't know the real reason for not eating in the months without an R and I think that's important to know. If you ever make it to Florida or any of the Gulf States, make sure to try some oysters from Appalachicola Bay. This bay provides 90% of Florida's oysters and chefs love to cook with them as they hold their flavor after cooking and are some of the meatiest and plump oysters you will ever try. Hope you have the opportunity to try sometime!
Fellow Oyster Lover,
Robyn Medlin
Chris

Hey Barn, Do you think that  Mandys  R  in the months of the year rule applies  in the Southern Hemisphere.
Chris
 West OZ
Barnaby Dorfman

Chris, wow! It's been forever! Hmm...interesting question! What species of Oyster do you have? I'm going to play my didgeridoo by the sea in search of an answer!