If you have read the beginning of Anthony Bourdain’s book, Medium Raw, you have heard of this delicacy. Ortolan is a songbird that is native to France that is facing extinction. In 2007, it was estimated that there were approximately 1,500 poachers catching up to 30,000 birds a year. The selling and purchasing of Ortolan has been outlawed since 1999 but has not been strictly enforced until the last 5 years.
During captivity the ortolan is fattened on millet. When it is time for the bird to be served, it is drowned in armagnac and then roasted for eight minutes. It is brought out to the diner sizzling hot. The bird is eaten whole, bones and all. It is custom to wear a napkin as it can get a little messy. Restaurant critic François Simon of Le Figaro newspaper describes the flavor as "… absolutely delicious: rather crunchy, with the texture and flavor of hazelnuts.”
Despite the ethical argument, Ortolan has been part of the French’s culinary culture and many are upset to see it go. Chef Michel Rostang comments “I find it sad that we can no longer serve ortolan in France…”
However, these birds are still available on the black market selling for 150 Euros a piece. If restaurants are caught selling ortolan, they will have to pay 6000 Euro fine and risk facing jail time if they repeat the offense. The same applies to poachers caught trapping the birds.
Most of us will not partake in this pinnacle of foodie experiences. We will have to leave it up to writers like Anthony Bourdain to retell the story of eating the forbidden fowl.
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