Port is the Unwinding Drink

February 17, 2013

Graham's 1994 Vintage Port

rupert symington port

Not to be morbid, but there are few wines with the potential to outlive you, and Vintage Port is arguably at the top of that list. Vintage Port is actually a Ruby Port, and does not spend that much time in barrel before bottling (2 years). And you won't see it every year; it takes an exceptional year for Port producers to declare it vintage-worthy. The resulting bottle of Vintage Port, containing a blend of the best barrels (called pipes), is unlike your everyday, drink-now Port, like Six Grapes. Rupert believes that at about 15 years of age (roughly the time our 1994 Graham's had been in the bottle), a Port starts to move into a secondary phase. As Rupert explained, you can start separating the fruit components and notice other, more savory flavors emerging. But don't fret too much about when you decide to drink your Vintage Port. While saint-like patience will be rewarded, Rupert will not begrudge you for your eagerness: "I have nothing against people drinking vintage Port when it's young."

Rupert and I finished up by talking about Symington Family Estates, specifically the second word: family. As a family-owned enterprise in a world of corporation and consolidation, Rupert stressed what makes keeping a business in the family so special: "Wine needs to be nurtured...[and] the family is the ideal vehicle."

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